The BBC is running a pictorial on members of the pheasant family in South Asia which are being hunted to extinction. This spectacular-looking family includes the Indian, green and white peafowl, the satyr tragopan, the Himalayan monal, the Western tragopan and the Koklass pheasant, among others.
Last October, the Acorn covered the hunting of another South Asian bird. Arab sheikhs fly into Pakistan every year to hunt the endangered houbara bustard, carving the deserts into exclusive playgrounds. Believing the bustard to be an aphrodisiac, the sheikhs use the C-130 Hercules, one of the biggest airplanes in the world, to airlift deli trucks into the desert to store their meat.
Some have built personal airfields… Some have constructed large desert palaces… Some live in elaborate tent cities, guarded by legions of Bedouin troops… Totally closed off to outsiders, these hunting fiefdoms are, in effect, Arab principalities. They sprinkle the vast deserts of Balochistan, Punjab, and Sind… the late King Khalid of Saudi Arabia transported dancing camels in a C-130 to join him on his hunt… The sheikhs normally spent between ten and twenty million dollars for a typical royal hunt…“… while Pakistanis are being arrested and prosecuted if they’re found to be hunting the bird, Arab dignitaries are given diplomatic immunity… It’s slaughter, mass slaughter. They kill everything in sight.” When I asked him why the government of Pakistan had done so little… he replied, “Because we lack the moral fibre…”… The Pakistanis see the Arabs breaking Pakistan’s own laws, yet there are huge sums of money involved… [Link - PDF]
In the bustard hunt, some see an allegory for Pakistan itself:
Like the houbara bustard, Pakistan too has been the prize in many people’s elaborate games. It has been used by the Gulf States to house and train their Islamists, the fodder for the war in Afghanistan, and by the United States as a conduit for arms and money for anti-Soviet forces. It was given the cold shoulder by both once the last Russian tank departed. Like the devastated desert after a houbara hunt, Pakistan was left a wasteland of heavily armed and angry militants and a socio-economic situation that threatens to turn the country completely towards militant Islam. [Link]
By law, Pakistanis may not trap or hunt the bustard. So tensions between the sheikhs and the locals are rising:
… this year, too, the bird was late, again — causing any number of crises for the Pakistani Ministry of Foreign Affairs… Some sheikhs — among them the Saudi Minister of Defense — receive permits that cover thousands of square miles. No other hunters may cross the invisible line that separates Prince Sultan’s personal hunting grounds from those of, for example, Sheikh Zayed al-Nahayan, the President of the United Arab Emirates… [Link]Tribesmen in… Punjab Province recently fired on an advance team preparing for the arrival of… the grandson of the emir of the United Arab Emirates, and his royal falconers… In a separate incident… Pakistanis with guns, hand grenades, and rockets attacked a new police border post erected to protect the hunting parties. The police escaped unhurt, but several vehicles were destroyed…
Local residents say they are fed up with the behavior of the hunting parties. Their recent complaints include that the sultan’s security drove their SUVs through acres of ripening crops. Later, sparks from the guards’ campfires set some fields ablaze, the residents said. The locals also said that bodyguards burst into their homes, confiscating guns and ammunition, and humiliated them. [Link]
The sheikhs use shahin (peregrine) falcons for the hunt, as they have for centuries. The falcons, the fastest animals on earth, can reach speeds of 60 mph in level flight and 200 mph in dives. But just to make sure they catch their prey, the sheikhs track the bustard with radar and infrared spotlights, which isn’t quite as sporting.
“The falcon is the fastest bird on earth, and the houbara is also fast, both on the ground and in the air. It is also a clever, wary bird, with a number of tricks… The houbara tries to stay on the ground… the falcon tries to coerce it, cajole it, frighten it into the air… the houbara emits a dark-green slime violently from its vent… it can temporarily blind the falcon, or glue its feathers together, making it unable to fly… once that happens, many falcons will never hunt the houbara again…”
The shahin… came down on the houbara, attempting to break its neck… The first thing that the shahin had done was blind its yellow eyes, so it could not run or fly away. Farouq cut open the houbara’s stomach, retrieved its liver, and fed it to the shahin. He then hooded the falcon and ritually cut the houbara’ throat… “Now it’s halal…” [Link - PDF]
Pricey falcons are apparently the equivalent of exotic cars:
“There is a huge competition between these Arab sheikhs… if that bird is nearly white or totally black — both are extremely rare — the sheikh, Madam, nearly has a heart attack. He simply must buy it… The record price for Balochistan this year was twenty-five lakhs” — a hundred and twenty thousand dollars — “for a shahin…” [Link - PDF]“All their falcons have names. They’re named either for great Arab heroes or famous falcons of the past. Some years ago, when I went out with one of the sheikhs, his favorite falcon was lost. He sat for four days in the middle of his camp, calling out his falcon’s name. Can you imagine? This was the president of a country, and he did nothing but sit and shout ‘Mubarak’ into the wilderness.” [Link]
The hunting kit is impressive:
The camp sprawled over some ten acres… The inner tent city, of forty-four chamianas, was surrounded by perhaps sixty smaller tents… water tankers, oil tankers, petrol tankers, and a fleet of customized hunting jeeps. There were immense yellow cranes, to pull the vehicles out of the sand… a mobile workshop… fitted with everything necessary to overhaul a car, and huge refrigerator trucks… Silver satellite dishes were anchored in the desert rock. From inside the camp, you could make a phone call to anywhere in the world. [Link - PDF]
The meat of the bustard isn’t actually an aphrodisiac. It’s more like coffee:
“The sheikhs fall apart when they see the houbara. They follow the bird helter-skelter in their customized cars — brand new Mercedes 250s is what they used to bring… these Arabs eat the houbara for sexual purposes — they think it’s an aphrodisiac! [Link]
“… some of them, Madam, eat one houbara a day — sometimes two, if it’s a special occasion. That means they may eat as many as five hundred birds a year!”… “Is it true that the bustard is an aphrodisiac?”… “No… it’s basically a diuretic. But they think it’s an aphrodisiac.” [Link - PDF]
The sheikhs were mighty irritated when the U.S. bombed Afghanistan because the U.S. military took over their private hunting airport:
… even though the airport in Dalbandin had been built originally by the British, during the Second World War, it had been expanded and modernized by the Saudi Defense Minister Prince Sultan… to accommodate the Saudi royal hunters, whose numbers had increased over recent years, as had the number of houbara they bagged and shipped back to the kingdom, in specially designed refrigerated trucks, aboard C-130s, which had been reconfigured expressly for the houbara hunts. [Link]
A crooked businessman started the business of hunting the bustard in Pakistan by supplying vices for the guardians of Mecca:
“None of this would have happened if it hadn’t been for Abedi,” Mirza said. He meant Aga Hasan Abedi, the Pakistani who had founded B.C.C.I. “He set up everything for them — from doing their shopping to providing bribes and geisha girls. The more he provided, the more their deposits filled his bank.” [Link - PDF]
In the end, it’s all about the bills:
After some ten minutes of negotiation, an aide of Prince Fahd’s appeared, and presented Dalbandin’s godfather with two bulging leather saddlebags. Sakhi Dost smiled his toothy smile. He then got into his Range Rover and roared away. [Link - PDF]
The era of the feudal maharajas lives on in the Arab countries, frozen in time by the windfall of black gold. It’s good to see that, like India and China, they’re investing their trade profits in projects that benefit their people. Smile! It’s your energy policy at work.
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